Sou devoto de Nossa Senhora D’Abadia do Muquém há muitos anos. Fui certa vez fazer uma reportagem sobre a romaria e cobrir a visita de políticos na missa no Dia da Padroeira, 15 de agosto, e isso coincidiu com um momento pessoal difícil. Um de meus filhos não estava bem. Minha esposa, Patrícia, estava em casa cuidando dele. Por telefone, ela me deu uma notícia que me entristeceu bastante. Pedi então uma graça, a intermediação de Nossa Senhora. Fui atendido.
Na época eu era editor de Política do Popular. Se buscarem no arquivo do jornal, encontrarão lá a reportagem que fiz, junto com um dos melhores fotógrafos com quem trabalhei, o Weymer Carvalho. (Nos arquivos da Tribuna do Planalto também tem uma, grande, cheia de contrição.) Desse dia pra cá, raros foram os anos em que não fui lá. Em tempos de romaria, fiquei no local mais de semana, conversando com os romeiros, andando, rezando. Fui quando não tinha festa, só pra participar de missa, uma ocasião, e só para rezar sozinho, em outra.
Fui uma vez apenas para acompanhar a saída da imagem da Santa, em Niquelândia, a caminho de Muquém. E já percorri os 45 quilômetros pagando a promessa feita naquele dia da graça abençoada. Saí ali pelo meio dia do hotel, sem almoçar, sem roupa apropriada, disposto a não mais que caminhar um pouco pela cidade, antes de iniciar a jornada, que programara para o dia seguinte. De repente, decidi não parar, ir em frente. No trevo da saída, me juntei a um grupo de devotos e pus o pé na estrada.
O que aconteceu. Perto da barraca do Estado, onde geralmente é servido lanche e muitos aproveitam para descansar alguns minutos, eu já estava exausto, não aguentava mais, estava a ponto de desmaiar. Ainda assim, persisti e num último esforço cheguei à barraca. Tomei água, comi o que serviam e me sentei num canto tremendo. Já era noitinha e eu penso hoje que delirava um pouco. Mas inesperadamente chegou um rapaz num carro e até ele foram algumas pessoas, me lembro bem de uma senhora e uma moça, as duas bem agasalhadas.
Acho que ficaram com pena de mim. Ou outra coisa que não sei explicar. Porque puxaram conversa, me animaram, a moça me contou que eram de Jaraguá, e que tinha chegado há pouco do exterior para rever a família. Elas foram a minha salvação naquela noite. Me permitiram deitar um pouco no carro, enquanto faziam não sei o quê, e lá fiquei até o meio da madrugada, tempo suficiente para me recompor. Nunca mais as vi. Nem lá em Muquém, algumas horas depois, onde cheguei caminhando firme, para participar de uma das muitas missas que são celebradas ao longo dos dias.
Ano passado não fui. Este ano não vou. Ano que vem, não sei. Por causa da pandemia, a romaria é virtual. Mas está nos meus planos não só ir logo, mas refazer a caminhada. Patrícia, meu pai, minha mãe, também querem ir lá conhecer. Vou poder mostrar pra eles então o que conto, o que demonstro, o que me toma à simples menção de Nossa Senhora D’Abadia do Muquém. Várias vezes chorei só de me aproximar da igreja, uma igreja imensa. E chorei lá dentro. E chorei sem perceber quando comecei e quando parei.
Preciso falar mais sobre esse choro. Talvez entendam. Nunca foi um choro triste. Nunca me senti sufocado. Era chorar e sorrir e cantar e rezar e chorar e sorrir e me alegrar sem medida. Ficar na fila para baixar a fita que desce dos pés da santa colocada lá no alto da parede atrás do altar é um ato de beleza sem tanto, uma subida aos céus como só posso imaginar que seja. Estar ali, sentir aquela energia, aquela bênção, aquele encontro de devotos agradecidos e cheios de fé, não tem explicação. É ir para entender, sentir.
Ouvi muitas histórias maravilhosas de famílias romeiras há mais de cem anos, de outras que se sentiam à vontade como se estar ali fosse visitar a casa da mãe aos domingos para o almoço em família. E era assim que todos sentiam. Que eu sentia. E sinto. E quem mora na cidade não faz ideia do que é morar por dez, quinze dias em um local onde o conforto é um balde para buscar água e um banheiro improvisado e público. Quer dizer: conforto mesmo é o do coração. E quem quer mais do que isso? Quem precisa? Aquele povo, eu, não queremos mais do que isso pra gente e para nossa família.
Muquém é um cidadela de poucas casas que durante 15 dias, mais ou menos, se transforma em uma cidade de dezenas, centenas de milhares de pessoas. São romeiros de todo o País, especialmente das cidades vizinhas e do Distrito Federal. A região é montanhosa, de difícil acesso em que a moradia se resume a um caminhão parado com uma barraca estendida, ou uma simples barraca, ou nem isso, e famílias inteiras em volta de uma mesa improvisada, ou uma churrasqueira inventada na hora, uma balbúrdia de fim de semana na casa da vó cedo, de tarde e de noite.
A romaria surgiu no século XVIII. Ninguém sabe exatamente como. Provavelmente ali era um quilombo. Um português garimpava por lá, foi pego, mas escapou de ser punido pela Coroa por obra e graça de Nossa Senhora. Uma capela então foi erguida. Uma tradição se iniciou. Muitos vão só pra festar. Mas não a maioria. Não a motivação essencial. A fé é o que ilumina o lugar, aquelas pessoas, todos que ali nos sentimos tão plenos de Nossa Senhora. É uma comunhão o que vemos, uma devoção sincera e bonita de se ver.
Minha fé anda comigo. Nossa Senhora D’Abadia do Muquém vive em mim. A romaria que faço continuamente é a que vai dos meus olhos ao meu coração. Esse amor de mãe que intercede ao pé do ouvido do Pai é imensurável e inesgotável inclusive na sua exaltação. Bom saber que existe isso, que sou capaz de chorar agora, com os dedos no teclado, e toda vez que preciso de um carinho, um afago, um gesto de motivação para erguer a cabeça e ir em frente. Vivo até sem mim, mas não vivo sem o aconchego e o colo de Nossa Senhora.
Além da nova caminhada de Niquelândia a Muquém, o maior desejo no meu peito é levar todos que conheço até lá, rezando para que sintam o que eu sinto. Para que se realizem como eu me realizo naquele santuário. Só o que desejo: que as pessoas tenham essa fé na alma, independente de gostarem ou não de quem sou ou do que faço. Ali está o milagre de tudo que anda faltando a este País: amor ao próximo, perdão aos pecados próprios e alheios, olhar imaculado sobre todas as coisas. Ali está a salvação.
Numa das homilias que ouvi no Santuário, o padre falou de algo que tirou da ponta de um grande abismo, poucos anos atrás. Ele falou sobre carregar a cruz. Sobre a importância de não carregarmos a cruz dos outros, essa necessidade que muitas vezes temos de querer fazer aquilo para quem e para o quê fomos chamados, mesmo amigos e parentes, ser o que não somos, querer o que não é nosso – e não digo materialmente. Sobre como carregar a cruz dos outros não alivia em nada os outros e nos pesa não pelos quilos da madeira, mas pela contundência da arrogância espiritual.
Cada um precisa carregar a sua cruz e isso não é dor, nem peso, nem desespero. Assim ouvi. E foi bom. Foi literalmente transformador. Isso é também, de alguma forma, aliviar a cruz dos outros, especialmente daqueles que nos querem bem. Eu procuro carregar a minha, mesmo caindo sempre e machucando bastante os joelhos na jornada. Isso não me humilha. Isso me mostra que estou no caminho. E que vou chegar lá, em Nossa Senhora D’Abadia do Muquém. Em Deus. Para dizer com alegria, porque com fé: “Senhor, eu não sou digno de que entreis em minha morada, mas dizei uma só palavra e serei salvo.” Entendem o que é isso?
*Publicado primeiramente em Goiás Notícia.
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